As We Rise: Man Getting Dressed, Winter 1627, Plimoth Colony
LOOK THE PART
Mens Clothing
Shirts
The shirt was worn to keep the body clean and protect the outer clothes from grease and sweat. Made of linen using a simple system of rectangles and squares. With either a low or full collar, generally closed with narrow tape, braids or cords.
Front opening hemmed, not faced and not laced up.
Shirts can be brought from traders at our events or large traders fairs like TORM and CLHF.
It is most important to buy shirts made of linen in the correct style. They are also easy to make if you wish to give it ago yourself!
Breeches
Wool generally lined with linen or wool. Fixed to the doublet with points, or hooks and eyes (via a girdlestead), at the start of the period, possibly self supporting later.
Various styles: Venetian, Cloakbag and Unconfined. Gathered or pleated into a waistband, fastened with buttons or hooks and eyes. Length to just below the knee. Fastened below the knee with tapes, braids, buttons or hooks and eyes. Style and quality of materials used was dependent on status and occupation.
Breeches can be brought from traders at our events or large traders fairs like TORM and CLHF.
They can also be made by various members in the regiment at different costs depending on the style of breeches.
We can lend out spare breeches to those taking part for the first time.
Breeches cost in the region of £40 - £60 for basic styles and sizes or £80 - £100 for made to meseasure breeches
As We Rise: Woman Getting Dressed, Winter 1627, Plimoth Colony
Doublet
A close fitting jacket with tabs, occasionally a skirt. More often than not with breeches attached with points or hooks and eyes via a girdlestead.
Made of wool or linen, depending on status and occupation. The quality of materials dependent on status and occupation.
May be unlined or lined with linen or wool, and with or without shoulder wings. Usually fastened with buttons.
Soldiers Coat
This would have been in the colour chosen by the Coronel of the regiment and worn over doublet. Made of wool, unlined or lined with wool or linen, the quality of materials was dependent on status and occupation.
Our coats are made within the regiment by various members. We can lend out spare coats to those taking part for the first time.
Coats cost in the region of £50 - £70 depending on your size.
Women
Smock
Worn to keep the body clean and protect the outer clothes from grease and sweat. Construction similar to men’s shirts with added side gores to add width at the bottom hem. Below knee length,usually mid calf. Linen, unbleached or semi-bleached (an old well washed smock would be white). Coarse to fine linen depending on status, with fine linen, embroidery and lace the province of the rich.
No drawstring or yoked neckline, either gathered onto a band (to a low collar or to fit neckline of bodies) closed with braid, cord or tape, or scooped plain.
Full or ¾ length sleeves, depending on waistcote sleeve length. With or without cuff closed with braid, cord, tape or fabric buttons.
Bodies (stays, bodice)
The desired upper body silhouette of the time was conical. To obtain this silhouette ‘bodies’ or ‘stays’ were worn, stiffened with bents, cord or buckram; whalebone if you were rich. Often the petticote was simply attached to a stiffened sleeveless bodice, much like a present day pinafore dress. No bustline should be apparent and there should be smooth lines all round the body.
Bodies should be front fastening, back fastening only if your status is high enough to have servants to lace you in, and spiral laced with a single cord. They should not be worn without a smock underneath and a waistcote (or gown) on top, imagine it is the 17th century equivalent of a bra and then decide whether it would be acceptable for you to be seen out in it (even whores didn’t go out half-dressed much as popular myth would have us believe!).
If your bodies/stays are loose, not stiffened and fit anyone else, they are probably not right. Patterns for bodies/stays and bodice/petticote combination can be borrowed from the regiment along with instructions for making them. If you have any sewing skills we recommend having a go.
Petticote (Skirt)
One or two (or more depending on status). Wool, or linen (not too lightweight).
90-120” (2.25-3.3m) around hem, wide enough to allow for stride length. Simply a rectangle of cloth cartridge pleated into a waistband or onto bodies/bodice. Ankle length if you are working and you have good quality shoes, otherwise just above floor length but not dragging in the mud.
Cartridge pleated (not flat or box pleated). The pleats can be padded with an extra layer or two of wool, this makes construction easier and quicker. The regiment has samples of cartridge pleating to show you how it should be done.
Plain, subdued or natural colours with simple bands of decoration at the hem if appropriate. Most rural people wore natural coloured undyed wool (country grey). If wool was dyed it was with natural dyes, the most common being madder red, which was thought to be a warm colour and used for both over and under petticotes. Amongst the cheapest dyes were madder (red), indigo and woad (blue) and weld (acid yellow). If wearing a linen petticote it should be a strong but period colour, so that it doesn’t look like your smock. (Colour samples might be available from the regiment).
If wearing two or more petticotes, the top one may be split to show an under petticote or hitched up at the front and/or sides.
Necessary Items and Extras
Hose
Hose may be knitted wool or stitched wool or linen fabric in a natural or period colour.
Footwear
Leather to period pattern, usually latchet shoes but ‘startup’ boots worn in an agricultural or rural context.